Lowering these cars moves the front suspension out of the best part of
the dynamic camber gain curve. Once lowered, the car gains very
little camber. When the car rolls slightly in turns, the outside
wheel does not camber enough to offset body roll. You can always
set the car up with static negative camber to compensate but then you
have too much negative camber while traveling in a straight line which
wears out the inside shoulder of the tire. Also, bump steer rears
its ugly head on lowered cars. I found these for about $120 including
longer grade 10.9 bolts and Loctite. They were offered in 15mm (I
think) and 22mm. The 22's don't fit with most 15 inch wheels so you have
to run the thinner spacers with 15 inch wheels. This trick has been
used in the past for 2002’s and can be purchased for a 2002 from places
such as Korman.
Mike Yaskin at Bavarian Specialties in PA is the best source for these.
I believe they were $120ish a pair with new longer hardware and red loctite.
340 E Church Rd
King Of Prussia, PA 19406
The complete kit. The included Loctite is greatly appreciated.
1) Remove the 3 bolts holding the steering arm to the strut housing.
Left side with wheel installed
Left side without wheel
Right side with wheel
Right side without wheel
2) Separate strut housing from steering arm
I used a large flat bladed screw driver to help separate the parts
3) Reassemble with the spacers in place. I found it easiest to put the spacers on the bottom of the strut housing first as the key along the top of the spacer was a snug fit into the groove on the strut. Don't forget to use the Loctite on the bolt threads.
Left side bolted together
Right side bolted together
Note the clearance between the lower control arm and the iside of the 16 inch wheel. Imagine how little space there would be with 15's. Now I understand the need for 2 different sizes.
If you were sharp, you noticed that the bolts pictured at the top of the page are not the ones I installed. For some reason, I thought the torque spec on these bolts was about 80 ft-lbs instead of the spec 48 ft-lbs. While torquing one of the bolts, I snapped the head off leaving most of the shank threaded into the strut.
Oops! Note the poly upper control arm bushing.
Luckily, I bought an SK stud remover a couple weeks ago so I had no problem pulling the bolt shank out.
I decided against using any of the remaining hex head screws because of the possibility of unseen damage I may have caused by overtorquing. I found some grade 12.9 socket head cap screws to replace them and torqued them to 48 ft-lbs.
I'll update the site with my observations next week.